my windshield fluid has not been working for a while now ever sence the car got all iced over i just got a oil change and they refilled it but it still doesnt work wht should i do go back to jiffy lube and have them fix it or wht? i looked and i can c the fluid stuff in the tube so i know its full
is it clogged?
Windshield wiper fluid on 02 dodge durango?
i dont know the temperature, so i dont know if its frozen or not, but if you get it working , put some rain x deicer winshield washer fluid..its what i always use, but this year i didnt get to it in time , and got some off brand that froze for like 2 or 3 days.
good luck
Windshield wiper fluid on 02 dodge durango?
Yeah, it's most likely frozen.
its frozen try adding deicer to window claer in cold weather wil not freeze and it it will also help deice windows
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Check engine light and oil not being changed?
So, according to the sticker that is on my window i should have changed my oil about 2000 miles ago. I noticed my check engine light came on this morning on my way to school. I mostly drive on the interstate and have been convinced that the sticker on my windshield lies about when i need to next change my oil. My question is, Could me not changing my oil make my check engine light come on? I drive an '03 cavalier and since I've had it (over a year now) I've had no problems.
Check engine light and oil not being changed?
That Check Engine light is totally unrelated to when you last changed the oil in your Cavalier.
Take the car to Autozone/Advance Auto Parts/Napa or another parts store and have them read your Check Engine Light codes for free to tell you what's really wrong.
Your particular car doesn't have an oil-life monitoring system, so there's no way the Check Engine Light would ever %26quot;know%26quot; to illuminate either after the oil has degraded or after a set number of miles after the oil was changed.
Check engine light and oil not being changed?
Your oil should be changed every 2,000 miles. Proper maintenance will prolong the life of your car and will save you money overall. And yes, that could be part of the problem. Take your car in to get looked at. It's a big investment and you should properly take care of it.
Needing oil or the oil needing to be changed could trigger the light to come on. Your oil could be low.
be care full with that, i slugged an engine up once and there was nothing i could do it needed an engine after that...
there is a hole egr system you can mess up... take it in asap
Every 2000 miles! Only if your money grows on trees!
Oil change every 3000 to 5000 miles is the norm. All hwy driving tends to make the miles run by fast so trust your sticker!
If your referring to the yellow/orange check engine light then that means the onboard computer has found a fault in the engine electronics/emissions. It is not related to the oil in any way. Any competent shop can check it at your convenience.
Now if your referring to the red engine oil light then we are probably chatting after your car is in the shop for another engine! The red engine lights means critical engine damaging problem is happening.
Lets put it this way. You do not need to clean your house. You can live in there for 20 years and never use a vacuum cleaner. But should you?
For longest health(eg best performance) change the oil when it says so. Sure you can go until it becomes %26quot;tar-like%26quot; again, but then it won't work and changing oil will be living nightmare.
Your check engine light is for a number of reasons- enngine oil to low coolant to a $500. cheque on the air cleaner addressed to you.
Maybe you should pop the hood and take a look?
Yes not changing your oil can make your check engine light come on.
The sticker on your windshield can only estimate by time when you need to change your oil, you should change your oil by your mileage.
Keep track of your odometer reading to tell if you've driven more than three thousand miles between oil changes.
Generally you want to change your oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months, which ever comes first. I'm not 100% sure of the dash lights on a cavalier but, I drive a chevy too, and I don't have an oil light so this could be your sign that its time to change the oil.
Check engine light and oil not being changed?
That Check Engine light is totally unrelated to when you last changed the oil in your Cavalier.
Take the car to Autozone/Advance Auto Parts/Napa or another parts store and have them read your Check Engine Light codes for free to tell you what's really wrong.
Your particular car doesn't have an oil-life monitoring system, so there's no way the Check Engine Light would ever %26quot;know%26quot; to illuminate either after the oil has degraded or after a set number of miles after the oil was changed.
Check engine light and oil not being changed?
Your oil should be changed every 2,000 miles. Proper maintenance will prolong the life of your car and will save you money overall. And yes, that could be part of the problem. Take your car in to get looked at. It's a big investment and you should properly take care of it.
Needing oil or the oil needing to be changed could trigger the light to come on. Your oil could be low.
be care full with that, i slugged an engine up once and there was nothing i could do it needed an engine after that...
there is a hole egr system you can mess up... take it in asap
Every 2000 miles! Only if your money grows on trees!
Oil change every 3000 to 5000 miles is the norm. All hwy driving tends to make the miles run by fast so trust your sticker!
If your referring to the yellow/orange check engine light then that means the onboard computer has found a fault in the engine electronics/emissions. It is not related to the oil in any way. Any competent shop can check it at your convenience.
Now if your referring to the red engine oil light then we are probably chatting after your car is in the shop for another engine! The red engine lights means critical engine damaging problem is happening.
Lets put it this way. You do not need to clean your house. You can live in there for 20 years and never use a vacuum cleaner. But should you?
For longest health(eg best performance) change the oil when it says so. Sure you can go until it becomes %26quot;tar-like%26quot; again, but then it won't work and changing oil will be living nightmare.
Your check engine light is for a number of reasons- enngine oil to low coolant to a $500. cheque on the air cleaner addressed to you.
Maybe you should pop the hood and take a look?
Yes not changing your oil can make your check engine light come on.
The sticker on your windshield can only estimate by time when you need to change your oil, you should change your oil by your mileage.
Keep track of your odometer reading to tell if you've driven more than three thousand miles between oil changes.
Generally you want to change your oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months, which ever comes first. I'm not 100% sure of the dash lights on a cavalier but, I drive a chevy too, and I don't have an oil light so this could be your sign that its time to change the oil.
What is the best year to buy a used harley davidson sportster 883? (In terms of most valuble upgrades)?
Companies change and upgrade their bikes as the years progress. I know Harley switched to belts instead of chains, fuel injection, and etc. I am looking for something between the year 2000-2009 and I want to buy a year when a lot of important changes were made. I would like a detachable windshield, too, if they do that.
What is the best year to buy a used harley davidson sportster 883? (In terms of most valuble upgrades)?
For the most advanced and reliable bike, go with an 07 or newer. In 04 HD started the rubber mounted engine on the Sportsters, but all became injected in 07. Almost ANY accessory you want can be be in the HD Accessory catalog......
here is more info on the Sportster..........
If you like the 883...go for it......it can EASILY be converted to 1200 and get more power from that than a stock 1200.
Get pipes and an AIR CLEANER!!!!ALONG WITH the Screamin Eagle Super Tuner!!!!This will give the bike about 12-15 horsepower over stock....the super tuner will allow for future upgrades with no added expense on tuning.
It can be be converted to 1200 easily in the future...if you want. The 883 has smaller intake/exhaust ports which give it higher intake and exhaust gas velocity, creating more torque. The 883 also has a 2 teeth smaller front sprocket for more torque, a 883-to-1200 conversion will out run a factory 1200.....all this can be done for slightly less than the cost of the 1200 bike ALONE.
The Iron would be an excellent beginner bike, especially being an 883. The motor easily easily upgraded to 1200 with HD's 883-1200 conversion kit. The bike is not too heavy, has a good, average seat height, and handles rather well. I would HIGHLY recommend having the dealer do a Stage 1 Download into the computer even as completely stock, but it MUST be done if you have pipes and an air cleaner installed (preferred is to have a Screamin Eagle SUPER TUNER installed). If you have pipes put on it to make it louder, get the HD Screamin Eagle Hi-Flo Air Cleaner put on also.....let that EPA Restricted engine breathe!!!!!
Larry G above is DEAD wrong when it comes to being pointless past the Stage 1 download.
You want the Screamin Eagle SUPER TUNER!!!!.......and have it Dyno TUNED.....don't sttle for just having the base map loaded. The difference between being tuned and a base map is like night and day. The base maps are just that...a base to which to work form. Every engine is as individaul as we are as humans, they each require a little finesse and tuning to make them perform optimally. The Super Tuner will also allow for easier tuning for any future upgrade you may make.
A Stage 1 download is nothing more than a GENERIC map from HD that is %26quot;ok%26quot; for all bikes....this is CRAP!!!......the Stage 1 download was specifically made for a HD with Screamin Eagle Mufflers and Air Cleaner......not all mufflers (or complete exhaust systems) flow exactly the same and not all Air Cleaners flow exactly the same...meaning, if you change ANYTHING on the exhaust and intake that the Stage 1 was not designed for, it wil not work as well.....like I said every engine is DIFFERENT.
As far as power output goes....it will vary as to what components are used and how well it is tuned....but on an average from completely STOCK to an upgrade of exhaust/air cleaner, super tuner, about 12-15 horsepower........
Here is a XR1200 that I just did recently.........I had the heads ported with oversize valves, hi-flo guides, radius valve job, 10.5:1 compression, cnc ported throttle body, Screamin Eagle Air Cleaner, RedShift Cams, and modified STOCK exhaust, all with a Screamin Eagle Super Tuner modified ECM. This was actually one of the easiest bikes I ever tuned....it put out 112hp @ 6700rpm and 108 ft/lbs of torque @ 5900rpm..............these measurement are taken at the WHEEL...not the crank.....and are higher figures than a STOCK HD 103%26quot; Big Twin.............
If you have any other questions, just email me, will be glad to help.
With the 3 answers here, and with what others above me have added, I think the Sportster line-up make great beginner bikes....also the 883's insurance rates are usually a little lower.
ALSO............alot of people tend to feel cramped up on the Sportsters.....they do make FORWARD CONTROLS!!!!!.....this will allow you to stretch your legs out for better comfort.
What is the best year to buy a used harley davidson sportster 883? (In terms of most valuble upgrades)?
pretty much any year you want really ride a 2000 model got new and im sure i have as many add ons as it cost me to buy it new pretty easy to fit pretty much what you want its just what you want to pay for the problem
January is the slowest month for motorcycle sales, they'll try to get you to buy anything for cheaper.
2000client side script migrating existing portal
What is the best year to buy a used harley davidson sportster 883? (In terms of most valuble upgrades)?
For the most advanced and reliable bike, go with an 07 or newer. In 04 HD started the rubber mounted engine on the Sportsters, but all became injected in 07. Almost ANY accessory you want can be be in the HD Accessory catalog......
here is more info on the Sportster..........
If you like the 883...go for it......it can EASILY be converted to 1200 and get more power from that than a stock 1200.
Get pipes and an AIR CLEANER!!!!ALONG WITH the Screamin Eagle Super Tuner!!!!This will give the bike about 12-15 horsepower over stock....the super tuner will allow for future upgrades with no added expense on tuning.
It can be be converted to 1200 easily in the future...if you want. The 883 has smaller intake/exhaust ports which give it higher intake and exhaust gas velocity, creating more torque. The 883 also has a 2 teeth smaller front sprocket for more torque, a 883-to-1200 conversion will out run a factory 1200.....all this can be done for slightly less than the cost of the 1200 bike ALONE.
The Iron would be an excellent beginner bike, especially being an 883. The motor easily easily upgraded to 1200 with HD's 883-1200 conversion kit. The bike is not too heavy, has a good, average seat height, and handles rather well. I would HIGHLY recommend having the dealer do a Stage 1 Download into the computer even as completely stock, but it MUST be done if you have pipes and an air cleaner installed (preferred is to have a Screamin Eagle SUPER TUNER installed). If you have pipes put on it to make it louder, get the HD Screamin Eagle Hi-Flo Air Cleaner put on also.....let that EPA Restricted engine breathe!!!!!
Larry G above is DEAD wrong when it comes to being pointless past the Stage 1 download.
You want the Screamin Eagle SUPER TUNER!!!!.......and have it Dyno TUNED.....don't sttle for just having the base map loaded. The difference between being tuned and a base map is like night and day. The base maps are just that...a base to which to work form. Every engine is as individaul as we are as humans, they each require a little finesse and tuning to make them perform optimally. The Super Tuner will also allow for easier tuning for any future upgrade you may make.
A Stage 1 download is nothing more than a GENERIC map from HD that is %26quot;ok%26quot; for all bikes....this is CRAP!!!......the Stage 1 download was specifically made for a HD with Screamin Eagle Mufflers and Air Cleaner......not all mufflers (or complete exhaust systems) flow exactly the same and not all Air Cleaners flow exactly the same...meaning, if you change ANYTHING on the exhaust and intake that the Stage 1 was not designed for, it wil not work as well.....like I said every engine is DIFFERENT.
As far as power output goes....it will vary as to what components are used and how well it is tuned....but on an average from completely STOCK to an upgrade of exhaust/air cleaner, super tuner, about 12-15 horsepower........
Here is a XR1200 that I just did recently.........I had the heads ported with oversize valves, hi-flo guides, radius valve job, 10.5:1 compression, cnc ported throttle body, Screamin Eagle Air Cleaner, RedShift Cams, and modified STOCK exhaust, all with a Screamin Eagle Super Tuner modified ECM. This was actually one of the easiest bikes I ever tuned....it put out 112hp @ 6700rpm and 108 ft/lbs of torque @ 5900rpm..............these measurement are taken at the WHEEL...not the crank.....and are higher figures than a STOCK HD 103%26quot; Big Twin.............
If you have any other questions, just email me, will be glad to help.
With the 3 answers here, and with what others above me have added, I think the Sportster line-up make great beginner bikes....also the 883's insurance rates are usually a little lower.
ALSO............alot of people tend to feel cramped up on the Sportsters.....they do make FORWARD CONTROLS!!!!!.....this will allow you to stretch your legs out for better comfort.
What is the best year to buy a used harley davidson sportster 883? (In terms of most valuble upgrades)?
pretty much any year you want really ride a 2000 model got new and im sure i have as many add ons as it cost me to buy it new pretty easy to fit pretty much what you want its just what you want to pay for the problem
January is the slowest month for motorcycle sales, they'll try to get you to buy anything for cheaper.
2000
Have you noticed that in the past few years automakers have decided to sacrifice visibility for styling?
Particularly with Chrysler products and Hummers, who have the %26quot;small windows look cool%26quot; syndrome, the pillars of cars (by the windshield, between the front/back seats and on the back area) have gotten bigger, and compromised visibility to the back because it seems to %26quot;enhance%26quot; the visual appeal of the car or truck, but makes it impossible to check your blind spot when changing lanes and backing up. What's your take on this trend and which car have you driven (yours or a rental) that seemed to be really bad at huge blind spots?
Have you noticed that in the past few years automakers have decided to sacrifice visibility for styling?
I recently considered buying a 2008 Tundra but after a test drive i decided not too because I didnt feel safe driving it. The windshield angle and the huge blind spots were too much. there is no way one could parallel park or back into somewhere without sticking your body out the window to see what you are about to hit. ive driven many full sized trucks/suvs and have never had such feelings.
Have you noticed that in the past few years automakers have decided to sacrifice visibility for styling?
my 97 eldorado has a blind spot at the rear pillars, but i just stick my head out the window, so it doesn't matter...
Compared to the other cars I've driven, I never liked the way the back end of my '00 Taurus sat up so high. When looking in the rear view mirror, it looked as if someone was tailgating even if they were yards away, because it made it difficult to see the license plate and headlights on the following car. I'm driving a 500 now, and like it much better...you sit up a lot higher than in most cars, and it's easier to see all around.
This is nothing new. Car makers have come out with some models that are almost impossible to see out of for years.
The Torrinos of the mid 70's, Corvette stingrays of the 60's, the fast back mustangs of the late 60's and early 70's and on and on. I could name a couple dozen.
Have you noticed that in the past few years automakers have decided to sacrifice visibility for styling?
I recently considered buying a 2008 Tundra but after a test drive i decided not too because I didnt feel safe driving it. The windshield angle and the huge blind spots were too much. there is no way one could parallel park or back into somewhere without sticking your body out the window to see what you are about to hit. ive driven many full sized trucks/suvs and have never had such feelings.
Have you noticed that in the past few years automakers have decided to sacrifice visibility for styling?
my 97 eldorado has a blind spot at the rear pillars, but i just stick my head out the window, so it doesn't matter...
Compared to the other cars I've driven, I never liked the way the back end of my '00 Taurus sat up so high. When looking in the rear view mirror, it looked as if someone was tailgating even if they were yards away, because it made it difficult to see the license plate and headlights on the following car. I'm driving a 500 now, and like it much better...you sit up a lot higher than in most cars, and it's easier to see all around.
This is nothing new. Car makers have come out with some models that are almost impossible to see out of for years.
The Torrinos of the mid 70's, Corvette stingrays of the 60's, the fast back mustangs of the late 60's and early 70's and on and on. I could name a couple dozen.
Hood latch broken right after mechanic work?
I was on a freeway about a mile away from the mechanic just done for oil change. suddenly the hood open and crush windshield. luckily I had not injury nor caused accident at all. the car was towed back the mechanic and he said the latch just got broken. my car is from 1995, he offered me to fix it without labor, so I get charged parts+tax+towing cost. is it reasonable offer?
Hood latch broken right after mechanic work?
He is responsible for your accident, he was the last one under the hood , he may have forgot to close the hood all together, not only is your hood latch broke but so are your hinges and windshield. I did the same thing and the hood popped open when I hit a bump and cost me a new set of hinges. good luck.
Hood latch broken right after mechanic work?
yes, that seems fair. but you should tell them they will be reported to the better business bureau if your car isn't checked before its returned to you in the future. this is something every mechanic should do before giving the customer the keys.
Hood latch broken right after mechanic work?
He is responsible for your accident, he was the last one under the hood , he may have forgot to close the hood all together, not only is your hood latch broke but so are your hinges and windshield. I did the same thing and the hood popped open when I hit a bump and cost me a new set of hinges. good luck.
Hood latch broken right after mechanic work?
yes, that seems fair. but you should tell them they will be reported to the better business bureau if your car isn't checked before its returned to you in the future. this is something every mechanic should do before giving the customer the keys.
Friday, September 23, 2011
Why is my oil caramel colored after an oil change?
I just had my oil changed and I always check it at home right after. This time the oil was a medium caramel color when in the past is has always been clear. They also stated that the oil was overfull. I did not add anything to it. I am wondering if this will hurt the engine. I was wondering if they did not really even change it. They also said they filled the windshield washer and I can't even see anything below the full line.
Why is my oil caramel colored after an oil change?
You are getting some kind of moisture in the oil one way or another. Could be a slight head gasket leak, condensation inside the engine, or possibly even some water that was in the oil tank at the shop were you had your oil changed.
Why is my oil caramel colored after an oil change?
I've never seen a clear oil, I think its fine.
water is mixed in your oil
flush the oil and if it repeats you have a blown gasket
Sometimes they change the oil and not the oil filter, if they do not have it in stock. Which has happened to me once (now I change my own oil) but it may just be the oil they use. I personally have not seen oil that does not have a distinct brown color to it so if its not dark brown you should be fine.
If its a buttery color and texture thats the head gasket gone bad not the color of your oil.
if its not clear possible just a cheap oil like house brand if you didnt say what type you wanted they used what they wanted that and the over full thing well id be back asking why and maybe its a bad head gasket but for sure go back ask why its over full
It is possible a head gasket is blown, it leaks water into the oil giving it that milky color and makes it overfull too
The detergents in the oil are doing their job. They are removing the sludge from the oil pan and the lubrication system. If there was no sludge, the fluid would remain clean.
Why is my oil caramel colored after an oil change?
You are getting some kind of moisture in the oil one way or another. Could be a slight head gasket leak, condensation inside the engine, or possibly even some water that was in the oil tank at the shop were you had your oil changed.
Why is my oil caramel colored after an oil change?
I've never seen a clear oil, I think its fine.
water is mixed in your oil
flush the oil and if it repeats you have a blown gasket
Sometimes they change the oil and not the oil filter, if they do not have it in stock. Which has happened to me once (now I change my own oil) but it may just be the oil they use. I personally have not seen oil that does not have a distinct brown color to it so if its not dark brown you should be fine.
If its a buttery color and texture thats the head gasket gone bad not the color of your oil.
if its not clear possible just a cheap oil like house brand if you didnt say what type you wanted they used what they wanted that and the over full thing well id be back asking why and maybe its a bad head gasket but for sure go back ask why its over full
It is possible a head gasket is blown, it leaks water into the oil giving it that milky color and makes it overfull too
The detergents in the oil are doing their job. They are removing the sludge from the oil pan and the lubrication system. If there was no sludge, the fluid would remain clean.
How can I get rid of the cigarette-smoke smell in my car vents?
I'm a nonsmoker, and I think the last person to work on my car was a smoker. Now the air coming through the windshield and floor vents smells like an ash tray.
Is there anything I can do to eliminate or reduce the smell? Changing the cabin microfilter didn't help. The car is a 2003 Nissan Altima.
How can I get rid of the cigarette-smoke smell in my car vents?
Go to your local airport, - where the small airplanes fly in and out of. There is a product called %26quot;Ozium%26quot; that is specificaly made for removing odors,- it is most commonly used for removing %26quot;puke smell%26quot; from aircraft (this sort of smell very unpleasant in confined cabin of a small plane). This is product we used years ago when I worked as a mechanic for a Piper dealer. He kept his airplanes smelling clean and fresh with this stuff. Undobutedly there are other brands that do the same thing, - just tell the person a the the counter what you are looking for and why, and they will get you the right product, --or tell you where to buy it! All you have to do is start system working, and spray a little into the area where the air enters the heater/ventillating system, - generally near windshield under edge of hood on drivers side. Also you can try a little in the intake side of heater with the setting at %26quot;recirculate%26quot; (if car has this feature), - this will pull it through %26quot;entry%26quot; part of internal input also ( just listen for sound where it is %26quot;sucking in%26quot;). This will also get rid of %26quot;musty smell%26quot; from a/c, - if water isn't draining out properly and has grown %26quot;algae%26quot; (moss) inside heater plenum in %26quot;tank area%26quot;!
How can I get rid of the cigarette-smoke smell in my car vents?
the problem might be the cars air filter....clean it...or ghange it
Use fabreeze spray in there.
Lysol spray
There is a product that you can buy at some auto parts stores. It is basically an air freshener that you spray directly into the vents just for smells like that. It is sold with the rest of the air conditioning products like freon and stuff like that.
Also, it is possible that your car uses a cabin air filter. It is a filter designed for the interior of the car to keep bad smells from coming in. If you have one and it has never been changed, you will definately want to change it. They are located under the plastic piece under the wiper blades. I hope this is of some help to you. Good luck. :o)
All newer vehicles ( last 12 - 15 years ) have a cabin air filter. It will trap the odors, change that. It will help eliminate the smell.
Is there anything I can do to eliminate or reduce the smell? Changing the cabin microfilter didn't help. The car is a 2003 Nissan Altima.
How can I get rid of the cigarette-smoke smell in my car vents?
Go to your local airport, - where the small airplanes fly in and out of. There is a product called %26quot;Ozium%26quot; that is specificaly made for removing odors,- it is most commonly used for removing %26quot;puke smell%26quot; from aircraft (this sort of smell very unpleasant in confined cabin of a small plane). This is product we used years ago when I worked as a mechanic for a Piper dealer. He kept his airplanes smelling clean and fresh with this stuff. Undobutedly there are other brands that do the same thing, - just tell the person a the the counter what you are looking for and why, and they will get you the right product, --or tell you where to buy it! All you have to do is start system working, and spray a little into the area where the air enters the heater/ventillating system, - generally near windshield under edge of hood on drivers side. Also you can try a little in the intake side of heater with the setting at %26quot;recirculate%26quot; (if car has this feature), - this will pull it through %26quot;entry%26quot; part of internal input also ( just listen for sound where it is %26quot;sucking in%26quot;). This will also get rid of %26quot;musty smell%26quot; from a/c, - if water isn't draining out properly and has grown %26quot;algae%26quot; (moss) inside heater plenum in %26quot;tank area%26quot;!
How can I get rid of the cigarette-smoke smell in my car vents?
the problem might be the cars air filter....clean it...or ghange it
Use fabreeze spray in there.
Lysol spray
There is a product that you can buy at some auto parts stores. It is basically an air freshener that you spray directly into the vents just for smells like that. It is sold with the rest of the air conditioning products like freon and stuff like that.
Also, it is possible that your car uses a cabin air filter. It is a filter designed for the interior of the car to keep bad smells from coming in. If you have one and it has never been changed, you will definately want to change it. They are located under the plastic piece under the wiper blades. I hope this is of some help to you. Good luck. :o)
All newer vehicles ( last 12 - 15 years ) have a cabin air filter. It will trap the odors, change that. It will help eliminate the smell.
Subscribe to:
Posts
(Atom)